Ah! Civilization!

I can't resist some of the world's best coffee amidst some of the world's best people-watching

A Sunday in Paris is one of life’s great treasures for those of us lucky enough to experience one.

And we did last Sunday – a sunny Sunday at that. Our first in France since 2001. Parisians, usually relaxed, are even more so on Sundays. They slowly take in the sights. They stare into each other's eyes. They love being alive.

Lots of Parisians get around on the new "velibes," municipal bicycles anyone can use for a small fee at any time anywhere

Gordon and I had arrived early in the morning after a long plane journey via Toronto. Our luggage didn’t make it, so we were pleasantly free to move without burden (for 1.5 days, until the bags were finally delivered to the hotel, just before we were about to leave!). After groggily negotiating the train from Charles DeGaulle Airport into the city (Place de la Bastille), we discovered our hotel room wouldn’t be ready until noon. So we ventured out on Rue St. Antoine for a morning constitutional.

We walked through the nearby Place des Vosges, one of the world’s great urban squares, and found our way to a restaurant where we had delicious coffee, ham omelettes, juice and toast. I won’t tell you how much it cost – let’s just say the Euro costs $1.60+ and things in Paris are already expensive. Gulp.

Still, you could immediately feel the Sunday Paris vibe – people feeling totally present, taking in the sunshine (even though it was cold outside). Some were sitting outside under sunlamps at cafes, so they could smoke. (The no-smoking-inside law just took effect here very recently.) Birds were singing. People were staring at each other – or into the blue sky above, or at the amazing architecture, or the budding trees. Discussing art, nature, philosophy. We breathed a sigh of wow – so good to be here.

Once in our hotel, we were able to take the Nancy Reagan cure for jet-lag: a long, hot bath (accompanied by drinking lots of water). It was tempting to take a nap, but the experts say you should force yourself to get on the new time schedule (9 hours different from Seattle) by staying awake until evening. We were glad we did.

Some sort of roller-marathon got thousands of people rockin' and rollin'

As we walked out into the sunny afternoon, we encountered an amazing demonstration – roller heaven! There were hundreds – no, thousands – of roller bladders and roller skaters speeding, sauntering, rolling along the Rue St. Antoine toward the Rue de Rivoli. What a parade of humanity – all ages, sizes, colors – all joyous and sprouting like the shoots of spring coming out of the ground.

We passed a free public toilet – imagine that! – along the way and wondered why facilities are so few and far between in the States.

Expansive public spaces incorporate such amenities as free toilets... ah, there's a line!

We walked by pastry shops and marveled at the sweet works of art.

OK, Neil, you'll have to fill in the blanks here-- what are we looking at?

And there was even a tanning salon. No, thanks, we’re enjoying the natural rays.

Many Paris buildings have incorporated older ceramics and architectural elements into whatever new enterprises are there

In the Metro station, a string ensemble played music that you’d pay to hear in music halls around the States.

It sounds better than it looks -- Vivaldi, anyone?

We went to the Cluny Museum, also known as the Museum of the Middle Ages, and took in some astounding pieces of art, stones, paintings, carvings, and Roman baths.

Pagan meets Christian meets mythological tour-de-force...the Cluny has it all! (Watch out for that unicorn)

Then we wandered around and had another cup of coffee.

Gordon is often tense until he gets to the destination...then it's as though he's always been here!

Eventually, we made our way to dinner at Le Petit Prince de Paris, a fabulous restaurant (recommended by our friend Susan Clampitt) which welcomed us like long lost friends even though we had never been there before. The food was one delight after another – a flan made with zucchini and scallops, salad with smoked duck breast and foie gras (sorry, Chicago!), monkfish with carrots and a potato-turnip puree, lamb with fried beets and carrot curry, a scalloped-potato pie (compliments of the house), and espresso with chocolate and almond (which did not keep us awake).

OK, this is why we are here. And the people, despite all the publicity, are very friendly. It helps to at least try to speak French. But a surprising number speak English, too.

Ah, civilization!

We're always looking up in this amazing city... but then you may miss some great street life!